1913-S Buffalo Nickel Value: How Much Is Your Coin Worth?
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The 1913-S Buffalo Nickel is worth anywhere from $40 in heavily worn condition to over $1,000 in high-grade mint state. This San Francisco minted coin is a true American classic, highly coveted by collectors for its iconic design and historic first-year status.
| Condition (Grade) | Estimated Value (Type 1) | Estimated Value (Type 2) |
|---|---|---|
| Good (G-4) | $40 – $50 | $250 – $300 |
| Fine (F-12) | $65 – $80 | $350 – $450 |
| Extremely Fine (XF-40) | $110 – $130 | $550 – $650 |
| Uncirculated (MS-60+) | $200 – $1,500+ | $1,200 – $10,000+ |
Why the 1913-S Buffalo Nickel is a Special Find
If you have stumbled upon an old nickel featuring a Native American profile on one side and a majestic American Bison on the other, you may have found a small fortune. 1913 was the very first year the Buffalo Nickel was produced, replacing the Liberty Head “V” Nickel. Because this was a transition year, collectors pay very close attention to the origin and design variations. To quickly verify what you have, many enthusiasts use the top coin identifier and value app to get instant feedback on their finds.
The San Francisco mint (denoted by the small “S” on the reverse) produced far fewer of these coins than the Philadelphia or Denver mints. This scarcity makes the 1913-S a “key date” in the series. While millions were minted, only a fraction survived decades of circulation without becoming completely worn down. Finding one in your grandmother’s old jar or a forgotten collection is a thrilling moment for any hobbyist. Using tools like CoinKnow can help you focus on the specific mint mark that drives these prices up.
The design itself was created by James Earle Fraser, who sought to capture the essence of the American West. He used three different Native American chiefs as models for the obverse portrait. The reverse features Black Diamond, a famous buffalo from the Central Park Zoo. This combination of scarcity and artistry is why the 1913-S continues to dominate the market.
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Understanding the Two Designs: Type 1 vs. Type 2
One of the most important things to check is the reverse of the coin. In the middle of 1913, the Mint realized that the design for the mound of dirt the buffalo stands on caused the wording “FIVE CENTS” to wear away too quickly. They decided to change the design, creating two distinct varieties: Type 1 (Raised Ground) and Type 2 (Recessed Ground or Flat Line).
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The Type 1 features the buffalo standing on a rounded mound. The Type 2 shows the buffalo standing on a flat, straight line. For the San Francisco mint, the Type 2 is significantly rarer and more valuable in all grades. In fact, looking at the 1913-S Buffalo Nickel auction records, you can see how Type 2 specimens frequently fetch thousands of dollars more than their Type 1 counterparts in similar condition.
Because the difference can be subtle to an untrained eye, using an app like CoinKnow helps identify the mound type instantly. Collectors generally prefer the Type 2 because the production numbers were much lower at the San Francisco mint during the later half of the year. If you find a “Type 2” with an “S” under the “FIVE CENTS” text, you are looking at a very high-value item indeed.
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| Design Feature | Type 1 Description | Type 2 Description |
|---|---|---|
| The Ground (Mound) | Raised, rounded hill | Flat, horizontal line |
| Text Placement | “FIVE CENTS” on the hill | “FIVE CENTS” in a recessed area |
| Scarcity | Common (relatively) | Very Rare in high grades |
Determining the Grade and Condition of Your Nickel
The value of your 1913-S Buffalo Nickel is primarily driven by its “grade,” or level of preservation. Professional graders look at the amount of detail remaining on the Native American’s hair and the buffalo’s shoulder. A coin that has been in thousands of pockets will look smooth, while a coin that was tucked away in 1913 will still show the fine hairs on the buffalo’s head.
In “Good” condition, the word “LIBERTY” on the front and the date should be readable, though the rims may be slightly worn into the letters. In “Fine” condition, the horn of the buffalo should be partially visible. By the time you reach “About Uncirculated” or “Mint State,” the coin will have a beautiful luster and no signs of wear on the highest points like the buffalo’s flank.
If you aren’t sure where your coin falls on this scale, checking a 1913 Buffalo Nickel pricing guide can give you a clear visual reference. Remember, even a small scratch or “cleaning” the coin can drastically lower its value. Never scrub your coins with polish; collectors prefer the natural patina of an aged coin.
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Where to Find the “S” Mint Mark
Finding the mint mark is crucial. If there is no letter under the “FIVE CENTS” on the back, it was made in Philadelphia and is worth much less. If there is a “D,” it was made in Denver. If you see an “S,” you’ve found the San Francisco version.
The “S” is located on the reverse (the buffalo side), right below the words “FIVE CENTS.” It is a small letter, so you might need a magnifying glass if the coin is worn. For the Type 1 design, the “S” sits on the mound. For the Type 2 design, it sits in the recessed space below the line.
Using CoinKnow‘s high-resolution identification feature can help you spot a faint mint mark that might be obscured by dirt or wear. This tiny letter “S” is essentially the difference between a $10 coin and a $500 coin, so it pays to look closely!
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| Mint Location | Mint Mark | Rarity Rank (1913) |
|---|---|---|
| San Francisco | S | High (Most Valuable) |
| Denver | D | Medium |
| Philadelphia | None | Low (Common) |
Collecting Tips for Beginners
If you are just starting your coin collecting journey with a 1913-S Buffalo Nickel, keep it in a safe, dry place. Moisture and skin oils can damage the metal over time. Many people use cardboard “flips” or plastic capsules to preserve the current state of the coin.
When you are ready to sell or get an official appraisal, look for reputable dealers or consider third-party grading services like PCGS or NGC. These organizations will certify the coin’s authenticity and grade, which makes it much easier to sell for its full market value. A certified 1913-S Type 2 will almost always sell faster than an uncertified one because buyers want the peace of mind that the coin isn’t a counterfeit.
Finally, keep an eye out for “mint errors.” Occasionally, coins were struck off-center or have doubled features. While rare for the 1913-S, these errors can add hundreds or even thousands of dollars to the price. Always handle your coins by the edges to avoid leaving fingerprints on the faces!
FAQ
Q: How can I tell if my 1913 nickel is a Type 1 or Type 2?
A: Look at the ground the buffalo is standing on. If it’s a raised mound, it’s Type 1. If it’s a flat, straight line with the words “FIVE CENTS” in a recessed area below it, it’s Type 2.
Your Old Coin Could Be Valuable!
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Q: Why is the Type 2 so much more valuable?
A: The San Francisco mint produced fewer Type 2 nickels in 1913. Because the design changed mid-year, the production window for the Type 2 was shorter, leading to a much lower survival rate today.
Q: Should I clean my 1913-S Buffalo Nickel to make it look better?
A: Absolutely not! Cleaning a coin with chemicals or abrasive cloths will leave microscopic scratches that experts can easily see. A cleaned coin can lose 50% or more of its collector value instantly.
Q: Where is the mint mark located on a Buffalo Nickel?
A: The mint mark (S or D) is found on the reverse side (the buffalo side), directly underneath the words “FIVE CENTS” at the bottom of the coin. If no letter is present, it was minted in Philadelphia.
